"A clean pool doesn't always
mean a healthy pool"
Zodiac Pools provide a full range of pool maintenance services including periodic service, equipment repairs and installation, pool inspections, and pool renovation services to both commercial and residential clients. We use or knowledge and experience to keep your swimming pool and its systems in proper and optimum working order.
With strategic modifications, ZODIAC POOLS can help pool owners achieve significantly lower operating costs, improved operating efficiency and a safer swimming environment.
With environmental concerns in mind, ZODIAC POOLS incorporates the lates proven technical innovations and eco-friendly options when servicing pools.
Our only goal is to keep your valued liquid asset (swimming pool) crystal clear, healthy and ready to use.
"Reducing the amount of water or electricity used by
a pool helps both the environment and your budget."
Zodiac Pools can help with both.
Each Pool Service Visit Includes
  • Remove the floating debris using the leaf net each visit
  • Pool walls, steps and any love seats (if any) brushed each visit
  • Chemical check each visit and necessary chemical addition
  • Pressure gauge of the filter checked each visit
  • Sand filters backwashed weekly (as a normal practice) OR each visit (ONLY if required)
  • DE filters (if any) backwashed monthly
  • Skimmer baskets (in case of skimmer pool) checked and cleaned each visit
  • Balance tank (in case of overflow/infinity pool) checked and cleaned once in six months
  • Pump baskets checked and cleaned each visit
  • Vacuum entire floor of the swimming pool each visit
  • O-rings lubricated as needed
  • Pre-party cleanups (free of cost) provided within 48 hour notice period
  • Maintain a written record of the service each visit
  • Pump-room cleaning (At least twice in a month)
  • Check visually to ensure that the equipment is operating satisfactorily
  • Complete water analysis to be provided after every 3 months
  • Gates closed and/or locked when service is complete
Recommended Chlorine Range in a Pool:
Free Chlorine 1 to 3 ppm | Combined Chlorine < 0.3 ppm
Chlorine is used to kill bacteria and control algae in your pool water so that it is safe for swimming. Stabilized chlorine or the compounds of chlorine and Cyanuric acid are in worldwide use due to the fact that Cyanuric acid acts as a stabilizer in outdoor pools thus reducing the chlorine loss due to the action of UV rays from the sun.
When chlorine levels are not kept in the recommended ranges, the following problems can occur:

Too much Chlorine:

Too little Chlorine:

  • Insufficient sanitization
  • Eye, nose and skin irritations
  • Cloudy water
  • Strong smell of chlorine
  • Waterborne illness
  • Chlorine waste
  • Algal and bacterial growth
(Recommended pH range in a Pool: 7.2 to 7.8)
pH is a measure of whether something is acidic, basic or neutral and it is always measured on a scale of 0 to 14.
A pH of 7.0 is neutral and if the value is above this, the water is alkaline i.e. it contains more alkaline components than acid components.
If the pH value is below 7.0, it contains more acid components than alkaline components and is therefore acidic.
The optimum pH of swimming pool water is slightly alkaline, that is between pH 7.2 and 7.8, preferably 7.3 to 7.5 for chlorine based disinfectants. This narrow target range is necessary for the disinfection process to be running efficiently, for the comfort of bathers and for the general condition of the pool structure, its fixture and fittings.
When pH levels are not kept in the recommended ranges, the following problems can occur:

pH too low:

pH too high:

  • Corrodes surfaces and equipment
  • Scales pool surfaces and equipment
  • Increases chlorine consumption
  • Contributes to cloudy water
  • Irritates swimmer’s skin and eyes
  • Lime forming
  • Damages teeth
  • Problems with filtration
  • Destruction of Total Alkalinity
  • Drops efficiency of chlorine
  • Irritates swimmer’s skin and eyes

To Raise the pH level:

Add Sodium Carbonate or Soda Ash, also called as “pH PLUS”. This has a pH of around 10 and will also raise the alkalinity of the water. Add Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) or Caustic Soda. This is very alkaline with a pH of 14 and must be handled with care. This will also raise the alkalinity of the water.

To Lower the pH level:

Add Sodium Bisulphate or Dry Acid, also called as “pH MINUS”. This is a free flowing crystalline powder or granules which in solution has a pH of 1. It is normally dissolved in some water in a plastic container and then sprinkled around in the pool. It also adds sulphate to the water
(Recommended TA range in a Pool: 70 to 200 ppm)
Total Alkalinity is a measure of alkaline materials in the pool water – carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides. It should not be confused with pH which is a logarithmic scale indicating whether a solution is acidic, neutral or alkaline. At proper Total Alkalinity levels, the pool’s pH will be more stable. The higher the alkalinity, the more resistant the water becomes to a change in pH value.
When Total Alkalinity (TA) levels are not kept in the recommended ranges, the following problems can occur:

TA too low:

TA too high:

  • pH is difficult to maintain – it drifts
  • pH difficult to adjust – it remains fixed
  • Corrodes surfaces and equipment
  • Scales pool equipment and surfaces
  • Stains pool surfaces
  • Makes water cloudy
  • Sanitizer efficiency drops
  • akes water cloudy
TA adjustment treatment:

To Raise the TA level:

Add Sodium Bicarbonate. This has negligible effect on the pH of the water but it will add the alkalinity. Sodium Carbonate or pH PLUS on the other hand will raise the alkalinity but will also raise the pH of the water.

To Lower the TA level:

To reduce the alkalinity, acid must be used. This is normally added to the deep end of the pool with the pump switched off so that the alkalinity is burned off rather than causing just a reduction in pH.
(Recommended Calcium Hardness range in a Pool: 100 to 500 ppm)
Calcium Hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool’s water. Water supplies are often termed “SOFT” or “HARD” and this relates to their content of calcium and magnesium salts. Soft water usually has less than 50 mg/l of these salts. Hard water contains over 300 mg/l of these salts.
Soft water will cause problems in swimming pools as it will have “Calcium demand” and seek out Calcium from the pool structure. This is usually the tiles grouting. This leaves the gaps between the tiles and ultimately the tiles starts coming out.
When Calcium Hardness levels are not kept in the recommended ranges, the following problems can occur:

Calcium Hardness too low:

Calcium Hardness too high:

  • Corrodes pool equipment
  • Makes water cloudy
  • Eats grouting between the tiles
  • Scaling may form on equipment and surfaces
  • Irritate swimmers causing sore eyes in particular
Calcium Hardness adjustment treatment:

To Raise the CH level:

Add Calcium Chloride or any commercial Calcium increaser (which contains CaCl). If the swimming pool suffer constantly of low hardness due to the quality of the fill water, Calcium Hypochlorite could be the chlorine of choice.

To Lower the CH level:

In order to reduce the level of Calcium Hardness, the only way is to dump some of the water from the pool and top up with fresh water which naturally contains lower hardness.
(Recommended TDS range in a Pool: 0 to 1500 ppm)
TDS is the sum of the dissolved compounds – hardness salts, treatment chemicals etc. in the water. Its importance has been recognized over recent years as giving an indication as to whether the pool is becoming saturated with chemicals in one form from another, and hence the length of time the water has been in the pool.

TDS should be maintained with the range (0 – 1500 ppm). If it reaches above range, water can be:

  • Salty to taste
  • Conductive - to produce corrosive conditions
  • Dull in appearance

TDS adjustment treatment:

  • If the pool water has become saturated with contaminants and the TDS level confirms this, the pool should ideally be drained and refilled with fresh water. There is no method to reduce TDS effectively without replacing some or all of the swimming pool water.
  • Conductive - to produce corrosive conditions
(Recommended pH range in a Pool: 20 to 200 ppm)
Of all the specialty chemicals, Cyanuric Acid is among the most important. Cyanuric Acid is important to the pool because its use can help reduce the use of chlorine. Cyanuric Acid, which is also called as stabilizer or conditioner, helps to reduce the rate at which the sun depletes the free chlorine in the water. In the process of disinfections, the chlorine becomes used up but the Cyanuric Acid molecules remains, and over time can build up to such a concentration as to cause what is popularly known as CHLORINE LOCK in the pool.
When CYANURIC ACID levels are not kept in the recommended ranges, the following problems can occur:



  • Increased chlorine consumption
  • Pool looks dull and lifeless
  • Chlorine becomes locked and ineffective
Cyanuric Acid adjustment treatment:

To Raise the Cyanuric Acid level:

Add Cyanuric Acid (Typically packaged and sold as “Stabilizer” or “Conditioner”). !!! Don NOT backwash filter after adding Stabilizer. If you backwash, you will lose your Cyanuric Acid residual.

To Lower the Cyanuric Acid level:

There is no chemical additive to achieve this. You need to replace part of your pool water with fresh water. To lower 10ppm of Cyanuric Acid level in your pool, you need to replace approx. 5% of your pool water.
Interested in maintaining a pool or troubleshooting a problem?